erbs
have always been a part of our lives.
Historically, herbs were recorded
to have been utilized medicinally,
culinary,
and simply for their fragrance. Ancient civilizations
historically used herbs for
medicinal and
symbolic
purposes. Recipes passed throughout generations refer to
the use of herbs to enhance the flavors in a special dish.
Literary passages describe 17th and 18th
century ladies with their herbal
tussy mussy’s*
deferring unpleasant odors as they made their way to special
outings or church functions. The Victorian era referenced
herbs and flowers symbolically for sentiment, a custom
referred to as
florigraphy (the
meaning of flowers*). Therefore, it is little wonder that
herbs have earned a place in our gardens. Throughout the
ages we have enjoyed their healing powers and savory
enhancements to our recipes.
Freshly harvested herbs have pungent and aromatic
qualities that far exceed those of their commercially
obtained counterparts--whether fresh or dried. Even after
the outdoor growing season is over, you can still enjoy
dried herbs in fragrant potpourris and sachets. You can also
grow herbs indoors in pots on sunny windowsills, and use
them for culinary purposes fresh, dried, or frozen.
lassification:
Herbs are classified either as annuals, biennials, or
perennials. Annual herbs are usually grown from seed; they
grow, flower, and produce seed during one season, and then
die. Biennial herbs grow for two seasons, flowering the
second year only. Perennial herbs, once established, dieback
in winter and flower each season. Some herbs are tender
perennials; these do not survive severe winters and are best
grown as annuals or over-wintered indoors. The garden
center offers a variety of 4” potted herb plants to utilize
as starts in your garden.
reparation:
Herbs flourish under the same conditions that you provide
for your flower or vegetable garden. Although most herbs
will grow in partial shade, it is better if the herb garden
receives at least 4 to 6 hours of sunlight a day. A majority
of herbs will grow well under a wide range of soil
conditions, with the exception of extremely wet, poorly
drained soils. Note, however, that sage, rosemary, thyme,
and lavender require a well-drained but moderately moist
soil. Your herb garden will need attention throughout the
growing season. Weed control and provision for adequate
moisture are two important cultural necessities. When
rainfall is less than 1 inch per week, provide additional
moisture. The use of mulch is an attractive and effective
means of controlling weeds and maintaining constant soil
moisture and temperature for the root systems of your herbs.
Mulches that you might consider include bark chips or
shredded bark, compost, or grass clippings.
If the garden soil is poorly drained, you can improve the
situation by amending it. Most effective would be the use of
raised beds. To improve soil fertility, add compost before
planting. Spade it into the soil thoroughly.
Prepare your garden site in the same manner that you
would a vegetable garden. Then level and rake the site to
remove any large rocks and debris.
The size of your garden will depend
largely upon the quantity of herbs that you need and want to
grow. An herb garden can take any form. They can be planted
in a formal garden, informally with flowers, trees, and
shrubs, or using theme gardens (kitchen, scented, or color.)
A “formal” herb garden generally is composed of a series
of beds that are not identical, but appear balanced. The
herbs are arranged by height, foliage color, and/or use,
often in rows. Formal gardens of the 16th century were
designed as knot gardens. This style used plants to create
intricate, geometric designs within a square or rectangle.
The perimeter of the bed creates the “bones” of the herb
garden. When choosing your plants for a knot garden, those
that are compact, low-growing, and manageable are best.
Avoid invasive herbs such as the mints. In addition to the
herbs, statuary, topiaries, and container-grown plants are
important features to include in a formal garden.
Herbs can be used to enhance most any garden.
Unfortunately most herbs look great for a season, and then
get leggy and unattractive the rest of the season. For this
reason, they are often “informally” combined with annual and
perennial flowers, trees, shrubs, groundcovers, and
vegetables. This allows you to take advantage of the various
colors, textures, and sizes that other plants have to offer.
Some gardeners prefer to select a “specific theme” for
their herb garden and choose the herbs accordingly. Some
examples are a kitchen garden (including thyme, sage, basil,
tarragon, dill); a single color garden such as gray-green
(including lavender, artemesia, and wormwood); a scented
garden (including mint, scented geranium, lemon balm, silver
thyme, and rosemary); or a garden with different varieties
of a specific herb (garden sage, tricolor sage, purple sage,
pineapple sage). The possibilities are endless, limited only
by your imagination.
Once you have decided on the type of garden you want,
make a rough sketch or drawing on paper. This helps to
visualize what the garden will look like and will help in
figuring the number of plants needed. Think about the
placement (shorter plants in front, taller towards the back)
as well as seasonal flowering. Consider the specific
requirements of the herb (sun vs. shade; moist vs. dry
soil).
Use specific plant characteristics when deciding where to
locate the plants. Color is one of the most noticeable
features of a plant. By choosing a single color scheme, you
can create a garden that gives a sense of space. For the
best effect, vary the height, shape, texture, and size of
the flowers and tones of the color. Colors can also be used
in combination; some colors blend together better than
others. For example, a silver-foliaged plant such as Grey
Santolina enhances red or pastel flowers. Yellow with blue
or orange with purple are colors that create a strong
effect.
Contrast is another technique to use to make your garden
more interesting. By definition, contrast is using opposing
elements close together to produce an interesting effect.
You can contrast textures, darks, lights, colors, shapes,
lines, flower form, flower height. Any design element is
possible. For example, a plant with round flowers is
complemented by a plant with spiky flowers.
ontainers:
Many herbs can be grown successfully in containers on a
patio or balcony. There are many reasons why you may want to
grow herbs in containers rather than in the garden. First,
many of them are small and tend to get lost in a landscape;
growing them in containers brings them closer to the viewer.
Container growing is especially recommended for herbs that
need good drainage and tend to rot in overly wet garden
soils, or for tender herbs that need to be overwintered
indoors. Containers are easily transported and can be
arranged in attractive groupings with containers of
flowering plants. When cooking with herbs, the containers
can be kept close at hand for your culinary needs.
Any container is suitable for growing herbs as long as it
has a drainage hole. Clay pots are often preferred because
they are more porous than plastic. Other containers that
work well include window boxes, strawberry jars, and hanging
baskets. Window boxes, strawberry jars and large clay pots
can accommodate a combination of several herbs and flowers.
I prefer shallow clay bowls when creating multiple herb
selections.
The soil you use should be loose and well-drained. A
recommended mix for container grown plants can be made by
mixing equal parts of potting soil, peat moss, and perlite
(or vermiculite). Our Jungle
Growth brand potting mix is a preferred mix that we
use in our sample containers.
Watering is the most difficult part of container
gardening. Plants grown in containers dry out faster than
those grown in the ground. On a hot, sunny day, a container
may require water once or twice daily. Of course, the water
requirements vary from plant to plant. When the top of the
soil feels dry, apply enough water to allow a small amount
to come out the drainage holes in the bottom of the
container. If your potting soil appears to always dry out
quickly, you may want to utilize the
Soil Moist product mixed
with the soil in your container. This product is especially
helpful in hanging baskets.
Since most herbs do not require high fertility, you
should not need to fertilize them as much as you would other
container-grown plants such as flowers or houseplants.
During the growing season, pinch the plants back to keep
them bushy and compact and remove any dead or diseased
leaves to keep them healthy. To freshen up the plants with
an organic fertilizer, I like to use the
Fish and Kelp solution by
Green Sense with a .4-.4-.5 content or
Ohrstrom’s Maxicrop Liquified
Seaweed content of 0.1-0.0-1.0. I also don’t allow
the herbs used in cooking to flower, this makes the
seasoning bitter. Pinch off the flower buds and don’t allow
these plants to reseed.
Herbs grown in containers can be easily moved indoors for
the winter. Gradually move them indoors a few hours at a
time over the period of several days so they get adjusted to
the differences in temperature and light. Herbs grown
indoors should be treated differently than plants grown
outside. They need sufficient light to keep the plants from
getting spindly. Grow them in the sunniest location you have
or under fluorescent lights. Since the plants will not be
using as much water as they did outdoors, water only when
the soil is dry; avoiding overwatering which will cause the
roots to rot. Check the plants frequently for aphids, spider
mites, and whiteflies which are common pests on herbs grown
indoors.