When it comes to cultivating fig trees, they are surprisingly low-maintenance plants. In general, figs don’t require much pruning or the use of pesticides, making them a perfect choice for both novice and experienced gardeners.
Best Time to Plant Figs in Texas
Early spring is the ideal time to plant figs in Texas. This timing allows the trees to establish strong roots before the winter chill sets in, as fig trees can be sensitive to extremely cold temperatures.
For those interested in specifics, these trees typically exhibit cold hardiness down to around 15°F (-9°C), although younger plants will be more susceptible to damage at these temperatures.
Sunlight and Soil Requirements for Figs:
Figs thrive best in full sun, needing at least eight hours of direct sunlight each day. However, they can survive with as little as five hours, although this may result in a smaller crop.
Planting on the south or east side of homes, offers figs both the sun exposure they need, and some extra warming protection when winter arrives.
When it comes to soil, fig trees prefer well-draining conditions but can tolerate a variety of soil types. However, owners of landscapes with very sandy soils may find themselves battling root knot nematodes, which can cause a lot of damage to figs.
If growing figs in pots, choose a premium, well-draining potting mix that is full of lots of organic matter.
Planting and Watering Tips for Figs
When planting figs, the recommendation from Texas Agrilife Extension Service is to dig your hole for figs 3-4 inches deeper than the soil line in your nursery container, and about 2 times wider.
Ensure that the planting hole matches the depth of the pot and is level with the top of the root ball but is at least twice as wide.
Regular watering is essential, particularly during the critical period when fruit is setting and developing.
Be mindful that figs can be subject to drought stress, so when temps soar here in San Antonio and there isn’t a drop of rain in sight, make sure you are offering some supplemental irrigation.
Making sure your soil has been watered a few days before an upcoming freeze is a huge help in protecting your fig tree from winter damage as dry soil is less insulating than watered soil.
Nutrient Needs for Fig Trees and Harvesting Tips
In general, figs don’t need a lot of extra fertilization, but as few doses of a nitrogen fertilizer can give vegetative growth a little boost, but it’s not a necessity.
To keep your fig tree healthy, add 1-2 inches of organic mulch or compost in a 3-4 foot diameter around the base. This should provide all the nutrients and fertilization your fig tree needs, and remember to replenish this mulch each year.
Knowing when to harvest your figs is key to enjoying their sweet flavor. Figs are ready to be picked when they appear plump and yield slightly to gentle pressure. As they mature, figs become sweeter but be sure to pick them before they over-ripen, ferment, and turn sour.
However, figs will not ripen on the counter once picked. Once fruits develop and start to fill in, make it a habit to check them often for the optimal time to pluck them off the tree and enjoy.
The mature color of figs can vary based on the specific variety you are growing. Recommended varieties for Texas include Alma, Brown Turkey, Celeste, and Everbearing. runners up are: Giant Blue, and LSU Purple.
Problems You Could Encounter Growing Figs
While growing figs can be rewarding, there are a few problems that could possibly pop up:
- Birds: These feathered friends adore these fruits, often leading to the need for bird netting to protect your harvest. Raccoons and opossums may also pose a threat.
- Fig Rust Fungus: This can cause premature leaf drop, affecting the health of your tree.
- Nematodes: The harmful type can stunt fig production. These generally are more likely to occur in areas with lots of sandy soil.
- Cotton Root Rot: High pH levels in soil can lead to this issue, which can be fatal to fig trees.
Fortunately, most of these problems, aside from bird attacks, are rare in the San Antonio area.
Growing figs is a delightful endeavor, yielding fruit that truly tastes divine. The lush foliage on the multi-trunked tree adds beauty to any landscape. For those with limited space, you can grow figs in container! Embrace the joy of cultivating this “fruit of the gods” in your garden!
~The Happy Gardener, Lisa Mulroy
Hello,
I planted a small young fig plant last year and replanted it on a lot we own but we anticipate selling the property soon. I want to dig up the young fig plant and replant it into a pot. What are the chances that it will survive? Are there any better to do it?
Thank you sincerely,
Thomas
Since you already have the new lot, I would advise doing this as soon as possible, while your fig tree is dormant (assuming you live in San Antonio). The best time to transplant is Nov – Dec, but you may still have some success if transplanting before new growth sprouts out. Waiting much longer will add undo stress. You must try to get as much of the rootball as possible, so start with a wider berth around what you think may be the root extension. Have your new hole ready to go, or at least started, the same time you dig up the fig tree. Pruning back the fig at least by a third can help make up for, or balance out, the loss of any roots that get cut, and will also help direct energy of the tree to the root system. I would advise at planting time, to water the rootball (before backfilling) with a liquid root stimulator, and the application of a product called Plant Genesis, from Nelson could be of great help in getting your new transplant off to a great start.
Make sure you are diligent about watering in your new transplant on a regular basis. Basically baby it for awhile, and you could be ok. Please let me know how the process goes as we are always happy to hear of a success story (or a mishap) so we can all learn from the process. Hope this helps. Oh… and you could also try at least taking a few cuttings to try grwoing some new specimens in case this doesn’t work out. If it does, you can offer friends an incredible gift!
My LSU Purple has gotten very large with many interior branches that are hard to reach given its diameter. What is best approach to pruning? Remove branches closest to/ touching ground? Open center somewhat? Remove crosses? Other? Thank you!
Hi Jean,
Yes, yes, and yes. to most your questions. You might want to kind of stagger some of those strong branches that are closest to the ground. This might give you a little more access to the interior branches. If hesitant, you can always start by removing just a third of the branch. Best to use a saw to cut the thicker branches. Remove crossing branches that are rubbing together as this is creates an invitation to disease and pest issues. Remove these by taking them to the trunk, leaving a 1/4 of an inch or so, rather than just shortening the branch. Some of those interior branches may be watershoots, but it may be hard to tell right now (you can remove those shoots that don’t end up producing fruit in summer). However, if you are going to take on this task. I’d advise sooner rather than later, while you fig tree is in dormancy. Hard pruning once your fig tree is leafed creates stress that may be difficult to recover from. Hope this helps.